{"id":6315,"date":"2025-03-29T17:01:50","date_gmt":"2025-03-29T15:01:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/?p=6315"},"modified":"2025-03-30T18:01:11","modified_gmt":"2025-03-30T16:01:11","slug":"03-working-cloth","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/03-working-cloth\/","title":{"rendered":"03 Working Cloth"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-28f84493 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:5%\">\n<p class=\"has-large-font-size\"><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/02-japanese-kimono-for-export\/\">&lt;<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:90%\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/nakanojo-2025\/\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1018\" data-attachment-id=\"6313\" data-permalink=\"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/nakanojo-2025\/p3\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?fit=1707%2C1697\" data-orig-size=\"1707,1697\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"p3\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?fit=300%2C298\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?fit=1024%2C1018\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?resize=1024%2C1018\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6313\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?resize=1024%2C1018 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?resize=300%2C298 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?resize=200%2C200 200w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?resize=768%2C764 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?resize=1536%2C1527 1536w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?resize=1320%2C1312 1320w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/p3.jpg?w=1707 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:5%\">\n<p class=\"has-large-font-size\"><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/04-the-body-in-public-view\/\">><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As the most valuable of all materials, silk, was used by the aristocrats and by the military class, while the commoners had their cloth made of bast fibres such as&nbsp;<em>asa&nbsp;<\/em>(hemp),&nbsp;<em>fuji&nbsp;<\/em>(wisteria bark),&nbsp;<em>kuzu&nbsp;<\/em>(arrowroot),&nbsp;<em>koozo&nbsp;<\/em>(mulberry), or&nbsp;<em>shina&nbsp;<\/em>(Japanese lime). Gradually cotton production increased with the introduction of more efficient home-based spinning wheels and weaving looms. Hemp garments began to fall rapidly out of use during the Meiji era. One notable exception was cloth made from wisteria vines. Until the late Meiji, work clothes in the Sh\u016bchi area of Shizuoka prefecture were referred to as&nbsp;<em>fujigimono&nbsp;<\/em>(\u2018wisteria kimono\u2019), woven from wild wisteria grown in the local mountains.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<p>Farmers,&nbsp;who ranked second in the social hierarchy, wore clothing made of durable, inexpensive materials with sleeves that afforded ease of movement. Their Kimonos began to be recycled and passed through families as heirlooms, usually worn until they were rags.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<p><a><\/a>Cotton came late to the north of Japan, so people could get hardly hold of it. Sashiko was a way of connecting worn out clothes and small pieces of cotton&nbsp;and piece them together into a quilted fabric, known as&nbsp;<em>boro.&nbsp;<\/em>As it&nbsp;would&nbsp;keep them warm, sashiko clothing was worn by all members of the lower working classes of Japanese society.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-wide\"\/>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<p><strong>01 Artist:<\/strong> Kunichika Toyoharu (1835-1900)  <strong>Artwork:<\/strong> 1874 &#8211; 3&nbsp;images from the series Tozei Shomin Fuzoku Gacho (\u5f53\u4e16\u5eb6\u6c11\u98a8\u4fd7\u753b\u5e16). It reflects Japanese society and culture of the Meiji era, and is particularly concerned with the lives and customs of ordinary people.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>02 Artist:<\/strong> Hiroshige Utagawa (1797-1858)  <strong>Artwork:<\/strong> 1843 &#8211; Thirty-six Immortals of Poetry: Mirror of Ethics for Girls, Woman in a blue and white turban seated at a looming machine and weaving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>03<\/strong> unknown artist.  <strong>Artwork:<\/strong> ca. 1900 &#8211; photo of a&nbsp;women known as&nbsp;<em>Ohara-me<\/em>,&nbsp;<em>female peddler of firewood,<\/em>&nbsp;living north of Kyoto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>04 Artist:<\/strong> Baron Raimund von Stillfried (Austrian, 1839 \u2013 1911) <strong>Artwork:<\/strong> ca. 1870, Portrait of a farmworker&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>05 Artist:<\/strong> Kuniyoshi Utagawa (1798-1861) <strong>Artwork:<\/strong> 1843 &#8211; Thirty-six Immortals of Poetry: Mirror of Ethics for Girls, Woman in a blue and white turban seated at a looming machine and weaving<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&lt; > As the most valuable of all materials, silk, was used by the aristocrats and by the military class, while the commoners had their cloth made of bast fibres such as&nbsp;asa&nbsp;(hemp),&nbsp;fuji&nbsp;(wisteria bark),&nbsp;kuzu&nbsp;(arrowroot),&nbsp;koozo&nbsp;(mulberry), or&nbsp;shina&nbsp;(Japanese lime). Gradually cotton production increased with the introduction of more efficient home-based spinning wheels and weaving looms. Hemp garments began to [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"advanced_seo_description":"","jetpack_seo_html_title":"","jetpack_seo_noindex":false,"_themeisle_gutenberg_block_has_review":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[80],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6315","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-nakanojo-25"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p53dR0-1DR","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6315","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6315"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6315\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6315"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6315"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.anita-gratzer.net\/ph\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6315"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}