In the early Meiji period, Western clothing was expensive, and was worn only by the richest in society. Wool had to be imported, and the need to dress properly for different occasions challenged the Japanese elite. When in 1866, wool uniforms were adopted for the entire army and the production of these uniforms was an industrial challenge. European tailors had to come to Japan to train Japanese how to cut, sew and design clothes that would fit. 

For private people it was more common, therefore, to wear some pieces of Western-style clothing instead of a whole outfit. Hats, along with a Western-style umbrella, were accessories commonly worn. For those with more money, leather shoes and watches were stylish contributions too. 

When state education for women started in 1872, housekeeping, dressmaking, and handicrafts constituted the main part of the girls education. Dressmaking for young girls also provided an opportunity to learn new ways of Western dress. New technology for production allowed for the adoption of new styles of women’s fashion. 

01 Artist: Shogetsu Toshu (dates unknown) Artwork: 1890 – Honour of education: Dressmaking

02 Artist: Yoshitoshi Tsukioka (1839-1892) Artwork: 1880, Strolling: Habits of the wife of a nobleman of the Meiji era. From the series: Aspects of Customs and Manners’ or ’32 Aspects of Daily Life’

03 Artist: Elstner Hilton, an American salesman who lived in Japan between 1914-1918 Artwork: Colourized group photography of Japanese people wearing mixed outfits.

04 Artwork: 1904 – postcard titled: Celebratory drinks for General Nogi and other army officers.

05 Artwork: 1892 – postcard Japanese woman sewing, advertisement for Singer sewing machines