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Until the 1930s, the majority of Japanese woman still wore kimono, and Western clothes were mainly worn out of home and on certain occasions. As early as 1939, cotton shortages prompted regulations in textile production. Kimono factories shut down, and the government encouraged instead woman to wear monpe trousers constructed from old kimono. Popular women’s magazines provided instructions on repurposing old kimonos,while the Home Ministry sponsored workshops in schools, encouraging female students to sew their own garments. 

In July in 1940 a law was passed in order to prevent the production of expensive products, including silk kimono. The use of elaborate clothes awoke high criticism among women, and the role of clothing in the war effort was a serious matter of consideration. Even geishas were prohibited from using the robe and performing.

In recognition of the impracticality of kimonos for men in the defence of the country, in November 1940 the Japanese government introduced kokuminfuku, a military-style uniform in khaki. This new national uniforms were intended not only as paramilitary clothing, but also to change the clothing habits of the population. Two national uniforms were established: the kogo type, which was intended to be worn in place of suits and formal wear, and the otsugo type, which was work wear. 

01 Artwork: Advertising from ‘Shashin Shuho’, 4 September 1940. Comparing regular and luxury outfits.

02 Artwork: 1941 – Poster featuring National Uniform for Reinforcement of Asian Power

03 Artwork: 1940 – postcard, Luxury is the enemy

04 Artist: Nakahara Jun’ichi (1913-1983) Artwork: 1945 – postcard featuring a young girl wearing a homemade kimono. 

05 Artist: Nakahara Jun’ichi (1913-1983) Artwork: 1932-1945 – postcard featuring a girl wearing monpe. From the series of National songs to comfort the army.